home or gone?

Today I had one of those “How did I get here?” moments as I caught myself dipping my head along with the beat in the song I posted here earlier today.

Eric Clapton’s 2004 album Me and Mr. Johnson was my first foray into the intriguing and historically significant genre of music known as Delta Blues. I spent many hours in the car with my Dad listening to the album from start to finish, and it had a very real impact on my musical tastes, my guitar playing, and, subsequently, my life. 

The album is composed entirely of songs written by legendary Mississippi bluesman Robert Johnson in the 1930’s. 

The legends surrounding Robert Johnson have been perpetuated for the last 80 years through other artists, authors and film makers. Johnson is part of the infamous 27 Club, but he is best known for allegedly selling his soul to the devil at the “crossroads” in order to become the most successful guitarist around. Johnson’s complete recordings include just 41 tracks, but that material has provided enough inspiration to be considered some of the most influential music of all time. 

Clapton’s rendering of the music is the most accessible, and also, not surprisingly, the best produced. Many artistic liberties have been taken (the addition of piano and other instruments, a wider variety of tempos, more solos), but these interpretations of the song are able to maintain a surprising level of authenticity while simultaneously bringing the aging tracks to life. Simply put, I love listening to it no matter where I am or how I feel. 

Me and Mr. Johnson has stuck with me for nearly 10 years now because of tracks like “They’re Red Hot”, “Stop Breakin’ Down” and “Hell Hound On My Trail.” I won’t claim to understand what Johnson’s life down on the Mississippi Delta was like in the 1930’s, but when my ears catch wind of these tunes on a warm summer day it makes those days a little easier to picture. The Delta Blues are origin of country, rock and even a great deal of pop music, and Eric Clapton’s interpretation of it is the best way for my generation to begin enjoying it. 

Back to work after being out of town for a whopping nine days. By my standards, it was time well spent. 

I put more than 1,200 miles on my car in that time period. The drive back to Howard City is about 180, so that means I took the Subaru somewhere relatively far away. This time, “somewhere” was a hilly town with legendary sandwiches, a ton of bridges, and skating penguins. 

If you guessed Pittsburgh…DING DING DING! I hit the road with John and his girlfriend (I could write a book on being the third wheel) so that we could chase down our beloved Detroit Tigers while they played the Pirates at PNC Park. 

The ballpark was excellent. It was easy to navigate, had great food options, and gave spectators this incredible view. The Tigers lost, but the experience this ballpark provided nearly made up for that disappointment. 

Pittsburgh is one of the hilliest cities I have ever visited, so there are a lot of great places to get up high and see the surrounding landscape. We rode up the Duquesne Incline (a cable car system built into the hill) and took in this view of the area. 

We enjoyed the famous Primanti Bros. sandwich, which came with fries and cole slaw held within the confines of the sandwich. I’m not a big fan of slaw, so I had to psych myself up to enjoy this monster. While I’m not pining for that particular item again after eating the sandwich, it worked well and I would never even  think about ordering one of these without it being piled high with all the traditional toppings. 

We didn’t really get a good pulse on the public transportation, so our legs got a noteworthy work out as we crisscrossed the city. You could call us foolish, but the weather was nearly perfect and we really got a good look at everything around town. 

While we were in that area of the state, I knew of one other place that I really wanted to include on our itinerary. Ever since I was about 12 years old and I saw pictures of this place, I knew I wanted to visit. 

Fallingwater was absolutely fascinating, and it exceeded my expectations. This is one of the most inspirational things I have ever seen. This place represents finding creative ways to make the best of a tough situation. It’s about focusing on what can be done instead of what can’t be done (I’m sure at some point during construction someone told Frank Lloyd Wright that you couldn’t build a house directly over a waterfall). I’m not going to stretch this post out with a ton of facts or historical information, but I would encourage anyone to learn more about this place. The most interesting fact I picked up while there was that the project went way over budget (as in almost 4 times as much as was budgeted for). In 1939, this is what $155,000 would buy you. Frank Lloyd Wright was a sly dog, but he made this work for everyone involved. He made an $8,000 commission (not bad for an architect during the height of the Great Depression). 

The remainder of my time off was spent outdoors either navigating West Michigan waters, riding on my new bike, or building backyard bonfires. Mom didn’t disappoint with her offerings at the dinner table either.

I didn’t have any high aspirations other than trying to disconnect from every day life and hit the reset button before heading back to reality. Mission accomplished.

As I left the house yesterday, Mom said “I hope you weren’t bored.”

“Not at all. I like the quiet.” 

Guess my old soul is making itself a little more visible these days. 

The sun is spending a little more time with us these days, which should be a good indicator that less time should be spent staring at screens and more time should be spent wrapped up in things you love that you couldn’t enjoy for the last few months (my beloved kayak is the first thing that comes to mind). If you live somewhere with a more friendly climate I hope you have embraced it, given thanks, and taken full advantage of it.

I departed from what most people consider the traditional notion of being a full-time student two years ago, and things have continued to change at a variable pace since then. Sometimes life feels like it is moving along quickly and the number 24 seems a bit too advanced, and at other times I’m able to calm down, kick back and say “that’s really not old at all.”

I am continuing with graduate courses here at Valpo while working full time in the Office of Undergraduate Admission. I find my position here to be meaningful and fulfilling on a personal and professional level. I enjoy meeting new people and working with them through their college search process, and I’m incredibly excited to move to a brand new building in just about three weeks from now. I’d like to emphasize that this new space is a Welcome Center not just for those trying to familiarize themselves with the University, but also returning Alums. Make sure you stop by and check it out next time you’re back - the dedication will take place at Homecoming this Fall. 

After spending time reflecting on what happened over the last year through pictures and a few quality conversations with pals, it’s going to be tough to top summer 2012. So far I have three graduate courses to complete, a few road trips in the works, as well as concerts, beer festivals and baseball games to look forward to (hoping to get some quality time with my family in too if we can ever get people in the same place). I plan on moving into a new apartment sometime in July. 

Ideally, if you were going to run into me this summer I’d have it be on the shore of Lake Michigan somewhere. I think that’s the best way I know how to sum this all up. Cheers. 

After an 11 year gap, I had the chance to visit New York City again during Easter weekend. There isn’t much to be said about this place that seemingly hasn’t already been said, but I’ll try to promptly sum up my experience.

I spend most of my time in Queens and Manhattan. I enjoyed experiencing a neighborhood setting out in Queens. Seeing how and where the working people of New York live was one of my favorite parts of the trip. I was excited to investigate neighborhood restaurants, grocery stores, bars and living spaces. Just like any other trip, getting into an actual living neighborhood can make you feel much more like you’re on vacation. You find yourself detached from the things that are set up for tourists to enjoy and you get the chance to experience things just the way they are instead of having them reined in and made into an attraction. 

Midtown Manhattan was a 15 minute train ride from my home base for the weekend. Manhattan was just as overwhelming as I remembered it from before, and I loved it. I was able to knock out all my goals for the trip in one day. I had an incredible sandwich at Katz’s Deli, got to stroll around Central Park, I got up high and got some great views of the city, and I also got to see an art exhibit by one of my favorite souls on the planet - Dave Matthews. Taking part in the NYC Craft Beer Festival was right up my alley as well. Surprisingly I found that volunteering and serving the beer was just as, if not more enjoyable than, simply being there and enjoying all the beer from the other side of the table. I love sharing beer with anyone curious to try something carefully crafted and new. 

New York would be perfect for me because I could live there and never have to get in a car. I don’t have a problem with driving, but of all the people you know I’m the guy that is most likely to suggest that we walk, bike, roll or at the very least carpool wherever we’re going. 

However, there’s a lot more to New York than just strolling around the city. The change of pace noticeable, but not too drastic for me. I like to go fast as well. Cost differences were just as I expected. As Liam Neeson said while playing Oskar Schindler “Nice things cost money.” I think a lot of people that visit New York have dreams of living there at some point during their life, and I’d be lying if I said those thoughts hadn’t legged their way around through my brain the past few days. The biggest challenge for me would be coping with the sheer number of people that I would encounter and the personal space that I would surrender. This seems like a lame thing to complain about, but the first thing I noticed when I left the city was a comfortable feeling that came as a result of not seeing people in every direction. Perhaps with adequate time I could overcome that. Perhaps I was never meant to be a city dweller. Only time will tell. 

Thanks Laura, Joe and everyone else I encountered for an awesome trip! 

I’ve chosen what I consider to be the beautiful piece of land in the Midwest as my top spot. In a state entirely composed of peninsulas, this is the greatest of them all. Taking a drive on Old Mission Peninsula can make you feel like you are in a cool car commercial - even if you’re behind the wheel of a 1995 Chevy Lumina van. Rolling hills covered with vineyards and orchards stretch down to the two beautiful, blue arms of Grand Traverse Bay on either side. It doesn’t matter what time of year you visit – the colors are always astounding.

I’ve mentioned how alluring the drive on the peninsula can be, but you’re obviously going to want to get out of the car at some point too.  At the end of the peninsula you will find a nice park with a lighthouse and a very rocky beach. This is one of my favorite places to just wander around, skipping stones and hopping further and further out into the lake on big rocks that are exposed just enough to hold at least one of my feet. There are a few other parks and beaches on the peninsula worth visiting, but this is the most popular one.

The Peninsula has no shortage of vineyards. The whole wine thing isn’t really my scene, but the vineyards covering the hills are still a remarkable sight. The last time I was up there I saw a few places starting to grow hops, which are a crop that I have a lot more use for.  There are a bunch of small roadside shops selling locally grown fruit and other produce, and I dare say that it is kind of “cute.” It’s simply an easy-going place that has incredible natural beauty.

Old Mission certainly gets a boost from the surrounding scenery and the charms of nearby Traverse City, but it is still my favorite place in Michigan by its own merit.

In closing, I have to thank my parents for giving me the opportunity to visit these places as a child (not including Short’s Brewery, I feel like people might scoff at the idea of giving a little kid a beer. This ain’t Germany, after all). I also have to thank my great friend Joe Campbell for showing me the glory of Stuffed Bun. Discovering these places with their help, whether early in life or within the past few years, have really instilled a love for the wonders my home state and a deep sense of pride. There are a lot of great places that didn’t get mentioned on here that I really love, but I went with what I believe to be the most outstanding.

If you read this blog occasionally, you will likely observe that I have an affinity for lists. This was easily of my favorite ones to write. 

Mackinac is a well-established tourist area – in fact it is probably the most popular tourist destination in the state by most measures. This area includes the city of Mackinaw (on the mainland Lower Peninsula) the island, the bridge, and the town St. Ignace in the Upper Peninsula. You can completely fill 3 days’ worth of activity within 15 miles of here (holla if you’ve been sucked into the Mystery Spot).  Despite the abundance of clueless and sometimes annoying folks that you inevitably encounter in such tourism-oriented locations, Mackinac remains one of my very favorite places to visit.

The mainland has a lot to offer - but where I come from you don’t go to Mackinac if you aren’t planning on going to the island. In case you weren’t aware, it is really difficult to have a bad time when you’re on an island (with the exception of Alcatraz in the 1940s, and perhaps Tom Hank’s spot in Castaway, but that still had some charm to it).

When I’m having a bad day, I just picture myself buying fudge by the pound, eating said fudge sitting in a nearby park while horse drawn carriages clomp down the street and boats slip in and out of the harbor. Then I’ll go rent a bike for a few hours and zip around the island to visit my favorite spots. I’ll try my best to avoid the road apples left behind by the horses, but that can be a challenge in the peak summer months.  Those are the kind of magical afternoons that are possible on Mackinac Island.

I’m confident that many people will acknowledge that their favorite thing about Mackinac is the fact that it looks and feels old. Other than the emergency vehicles on the island, there are no cars. There is horse dookie everywhere, but it is cleaned up promptly on the main streets.  You’re surrounded by clean, beautiful water. It is truly breathtaking, and not simply by virtue of being pretty darn cold most of the year.  The backdrop of the Mackinac Bridge and the straights really give the idea that the great lakes are enormous, and this island is a place that is stuck in a bygone era. 

My favorite restaurant in Michigan beats out a lot of other places that I really enjoy, and I stand by my decision to put this place in my top 3. This place is the definitive gastro pub. Along with a trendy and (mostly) environmentally conscious menu, It has indoor and outdoor seating, a beautiful bar, comfortable seating around the restaurant, and dedication to the theme (it feels like a British pub). The food is surprising. You know you’re going to get something good here, so it isn’t surprising in that regard. I’m implying that even if you have enjoyed a particular menu item multiple times and you choose to order it again, you get pleasant reminders of why you liked it last time coupled with new realizations of the contents of the item (I’m thinking of the Bangladesh Burrito in particular, which I’m sad to say is no longer on the menu). Fortunately their offerings are ever-evolving, truly unique and always delicious, but I must admit that the beer is the real reason I love this place.

Graydon’s tap list is remarkable. Delerium Tremens has been on tap every time I have visited. Need I say more? There are beers for every palate, and the prices are very fair. You can choose a variety of serving sizes and you get very knowledgeable advice about each of the brews and what would pair well with particular menu items. Their dedication to Michigan Beers is noteworthy, but they definitely don’t overlook great offerings from outside of the state. An incredible Bourbon Barrel Aged Old Rasputin XV was on tap last time I visited.  I can gush about this place for hours on end, and I’ve been known to evangelize about this place to anyone I know from Grand Rapids or anyone planning on visiting (seems like I’m continuing that trend right now). If you get the chance to go here, you will understand why. 

Michigan’s big sandbox absolutely had to be included in my top 10. If you have ever been on out on the dunes at Silver Lake on any kind of buggy, you know why. I understand that this is the only place east of Utah where a private vehicle can be driven on Sand Dunes, and a lot of people take advantage of that. This location has a fair number of tourist attractions away from the dunes, it isn’t too far off the beaten path, and it also maintains a mellow atmosphere that I appreciate – that’s what gets it so high on my list. Yogi Bear’s Jellystone campground was arguably my favorite place in the world as a child, and I’m not 100% sure it isn’t still one of my favorite places. It’s possible that the magic hasn’t worn off yet.  The Little Sable Point Lighthouse (my Mother’s favorite) and surrounding beach is fairly popular, but still remarkably underused. *Fun fact, this point marks the narrowest passage between Michigan and Wisconsin on Lake Michigan. This would be my first choice of places where I could camp, sleep, hike and hit up the beach in the same day in the mitten. 

Off-roading at Silver Lake. 

Bi-Peninsular and Proud. This phrase has starting gaining some traction by way of a popular tshirt, but many Michiganders and others haven’t really experienced it. I hit on a couple spots in the Upper Peninsula earlier in this series, but there is more to cover. 30% of Michigan’s land area is on the other side of the bridge, and it is vastly different from the rest of the state.

The Western U.P. in particular is a long, long ways away from home for the majority of the state’s population – at least 9 hours in most cases. This is an incredibly rewarding journey, however. If you like being outdoors, I’m not going out on any limbs here when I tell you that you have to get to the Western U.P. It has the best winter sports environment in the state, and perhaps the best skiing/snowboarding in the Midwest. Mountains, lakes, seemingly-endless wilderness and the most charming people you’ll meet in the whole state – the Yoopers.

Admittedly, this region doesn’t always feel like your traditional idea of Michigan when you’re there. It’s overrun with Packers fans, they scarf down pasties and have no problem walking around in short sleeves and jeans when the temps dip into the 30s, but I’ll be jiggered if it isn’t the most beautiful place in the entire state – no matter when you find yourself visiting. The waterfalls are my favorite natural wonder up there, but the Porcupine Mountains and Lake Superior shoreline is impressive as well. This area is the best place to find total silence and get a breath of the freshest air.  You don’t know Michigan until you’ve seen the Lake of the Clouds (seen below). 

These guys make a mean Pastie. 

Superior Falls at the Western-most edge of Michigan. That’s Wisconsin on the right side of the falls. I guess we can share. 

With baseball season coming in hot, I have this place fresh on my mind.

This wasn’t much of a home run ballpark until Cabrera showed up (and it still isn’t, really), but the Tigers have given Michigan a lot of other reasons to cheer for the better part of a decade. The park itself has hosted two World Series, an All-Star Game and the occasional big name concert since it opened in 2000. Comerica Park single-handedly gave millions of Tigers fans from around the country a reason to get back to downtown Detroit, which is a hard trip to sell these days.

Admittedly there are ballparks that I have found more impressive, but none are more enjoyable than “CoPa.” You can still go to a game without spending a small fortune, the food is serviceable thanks to Leo’s Coney and Little Caesar’s, and it’s very possible to walk all the way around the park and enjoy yourself during the game (and I suggest doing this, especially if you get to stop by the $5 Pabst booth out in center a few times). You can probably count on meeting some friendly Canadians from across the river there too. That’s usually fun. 

The mammoth scoreboard makes the park seem enclosed, but the view is still filled in by the Detroit skyline. Say what you will, it’s still a nice backdrop for a baseball game (I really miss the giant whale mural beyond right field, however). There aren’t any bad seats in there, and typically the fans aren’t too obnoxious (compared to White Sox/Yankees fans). It’s a happy place. If you don’t like the Tigers, try to schedule a visit when your favorite team is playing, or even better - get a new favorite team. Also, do yourself a favor make a stop at The Old Shillelaugh down Brush St. before or after the game – my favorite haunt in Detroit.

(Note: the only bad thing about going to a game at Comerica is that you don’t get to listen to Mario and Rod on FSN Detroit. I’d listen to these guys give play by play of the growth of a corn crop. They are the best).

No “best of” list can come to completion without the inclusion of some culinary art. Stuffed Bun in Pontiac serves their food up big. Any place that serves its food on plates that are bigger than your average hubcap has a leg-up on the competition in my eyes. Stuffed Bun excels in the breakfast category, with omelets and pancakes that earn the adjective “incredible.” I’ve never had anything that was less than outstanding from this place, and the service has always been top-notch – meaning it is quick, knowledgeable, and peppered with a little “Morning Sunshine” sarcasm for good measure. Don’t eat here if you have any lunch plans, because you won’t want to (read: be able to) eat anything until dinner.

A meal I couldn’t finish. This is a tremendously rare occasion.  

Not all of the items in my top 10 list are outdoors, but you could easily fill the whole list with such locations. Number 8 is a two-for-one affair covering some of my favorite spots that I first visited as a child. They are roughly 30 miles apart, which is practically a stone’s throw in terms of distances between anything in the Upper Peninsula.

Start by picturing a 300’x175’ oval-shaped pond…

…now picture being able to see 40 feet straight down into bright, blue, bubbling water teeming with fish. It’s an incredible sight and it’s peaceful enough to make Donald Trump calm down and shut up.  The attached image from Kitch-iti-kipi last fall should be able to help you visualize this if you’re having trouble on your own.  The park features a hand-cranked covered raft with a large opening in the bottom for your viewing pleasure.  It’s a relatively quick stop, but the trip in is enjoyable and close to many other beautiful locations including Fayette Historic Site.

Fayette spooks me out – as any “ghost town” should. They used to manufacture pig iron there in the second half of the 19^th century. Who knows what that even is anymore?  What remains is an empty, well-maintained snapshot of life in that era, but it’s not corny or overdone. Much of the isolated town is still left for you to explore at your leisure. The town is on a big bay off of Lake Michigan and the scenery around is both eerie and breathtaking. The last time I was there I didn’t encounter anyone else, which is rare because this is a fairly well-visited location. It really added to the ghost town effect.  Make sure to take a short hike along the bluff to the north of Fayette for a better view. 

Trout at Kitch-iti-kipi

Fayette Ghost Town from the bluff

Aside from having the distinction of being the State Park that I have visited the most, this is objectively the most peaceful and geologically diverse chunk of land in the lower peninsula. The 8 mile drive in from the easy-going beach town of Ludington is tucked between sand dunes on both sides, and the view of Lake Michigan is unmatched.

The park has a great, under-used beach, one of the taller lighthouses (still in use), great camping, and some of my favorite hiking trails in the state. I would recommend walking the Skyline trail which follows the top of several dunes and the Sable River. This trail provides an awesome work out for any fitness freaks looking for a challenge with a lot of stairs. The Island trail is much easier to navigate and equally as scenic, following the shore of Hamlin Lake. Do both if you have a few hours to wander.

I also enjoy visiting the state park in the fall when the Salmon are running. The river fills up with more fish than the Gordon’s fisherman guy could ever handle, and they are just plain big fish. It’s fun even if you don’t have a pole in your hands (ahem).

Grandpa Smith always used to tell fairly amusing stories of discovering a nude beach a few miles north up the beach. Grandma always used to question whether or not this was an accident, however. Dad knew this place like “the back of his hand.” He would work here during the summers between college, kicking disrobed couples off the beach after 10pm. I always enjoy the stories about the park rangers tipping back a few drinks behind the counter on rough days when the “flatlanders” from downstate would come in to voice frivolous complaints.

All in all, I’ve got a lot of family history at this particular location. 

Short’s can do no wrong (other than that Bloody Mary beer I’ve heard about but purposely never tried, but kudos to them for creating something absolutely bizarre and unique). The beer is exceptional, but the service at the brewpub, the humble approach in delivery, and the devotion to pushing the envelope is what makes this one of my very favorites. I can’t get this beer in Indiana, unfortunately. That makes it a real treat to drink when I make my way back home. If you’re ever in the northern portion of the lower peninsula and you like beer in any capacity, you must go to Short’s brewpub in Bellaire. The drive is a scenic treat as well.